Update

So it has been awhile since my last post and although I'm in touch with people individually I thought it best to recap and preview this weekend.  This weekend we are planning a trek up through Chaman's village and then on to some higher peaks, I am anticipating some terrific pictures.

Recently in Palampur I have been recovering from a sinus infection aka getting caught up on unseen Mad Men episodes.  I've now returned to the field toting the financial survey I created.  The survey takes down a  household's savings/income/insurance/debts in an attempt to ascertain who may want a loan but not sure how to get one.  What I've found is that bank loans are available, but at an absurd rate of 12.5% interest.  However, savings accounts accrue anywhere from 4% upon maturity and checking accounts somewhere near 8%.  I might end up recommending them buying short-term Pakistani bonds which kick 13% interests.  I doubt that will go over well, so it'll have to come in the form of a joke.  So far I've only taken down info from 2 families and will be returning daily to add to those profiles.

So some time for some random things/factoids about India:
1. India has the most billionaires in the world and the largest population living in poverty.
2. Toilet paper cannot be flushed down the toilet...garbage can.
3. Indian shower is a drain on your bathroom floor.  The shower head usually sends water into a bucket and you use a cup to scoop water and rinse.
4. Taxis charge a flat rate.  More passengers doesn't mean a higher fare.
5. People drive on the left.
6. Mopeds are more common than cars in most areas.
7. Cows have the right away.

Hello Palampur

After a 14 hour bus ride we made it to Palampur in time to see the sun rise.  The bus was an experience of its own.  If a vehicle is capable of hitting more potholes than it has tires, it was the bus we rode.  Not because the bus was special in some way, it was quite ordinary; the roads on the other hand were not so special.  The only thing that compares is being in the middle of Grand Traverse Bay with 6 ft. waves slapping against the side of the boat, I'm surprised the axles didn't break.  The rest of the time it was like riding a washboard, which was nice because at least it was consistent jolting.  At one point I tried to fall asleep with my index finger in my mouth to avoid the rattling of my teeth, or a concussion.  Despite all of this, I actually enjoyed it (perhaps my amusement for and enjoyment of turbulence on airplanes explains this).  As we got further north (I presume) we encountered some roads that were the equivalent of pavement, except they were packed dirt cut through the middle of a forest.  For those of you struggling to imagine this think I696 + Deadwood.  At this point the bus became more like a freight train amongst other heavy vehicles (which are rare because of narrow streets).  It's hard to describe, but in the middle of the forest small shops and other buildings supplied light that reminds me of the lights they would use for construction work in darkness.  This continued for 100miles or so eventually leading to pavement.  Then the bus took on the characteristics of a wooden roller coaster navigating the S shape pattern of our road as we continued north.  This bus trip beats any Greyhound experience I could conceive of.  I didn't get much sleep and am tired.  Staying awake through the next day I was reminded of my 14 consecutive hours of doing nothing and staying awake all night/day when I was home, who would have thought that was actually preparation for my eventual travel.

I don't have any pics of the bus ride, having a camera would have been a boldly stupid thing to do.  I am going to post some pics of a place called Happy Valley.  Also, I'm going to post some remaining pics of Mussoorie.

Sitting in a hotel with a name eerily similar to my own...

I am at the luxurious Rokesby Inn, situated above the towns of Mussoorie and Landour with a view similar to the first picture I posted.  I am not posting any pictures because I am using a public computer (Windows 7 no less); I have purchased 1 hour of internet use which cost 44rupees = $1USD.  Now that I am aware of how awesome this location is, mostly because it is immune from the monsoon dampness of my quarters, I will be returning with my laptop and *recently snapped pictures*.  Also, when (it will happen) the power goes out, this hotel most likely has a backup generator; losing internet in the middle of conversations or when I'm about to post something can become quite frustrating.  The reason for the power outages varies from weather related issues (lightning strikes) to an overburdened power station.  The power situation in Uttarakhand  is quite good relative to other states; power outages usually last 5-15 minutes, however this morning we awoke to no power which lasted well into the morning Hindi lessons.  Uttarakhand has a lot of hydroelectric dams, which are the primary source of power (the people around here recognize its natural beauty and are naturally hesitant to build a power structure around burning coal).

*The recently taken pictures I am referring to are among the best yet.  We traveled to a peak called "Cloud's end" (the name is....spot on) which is estimated to be about 8000 ft/ sea level.  The journey up the mountain first began with a descent to the valley which allowed us access to our eventual tectonic ladder.  The views on the way up the mountain were pretty nice but visibility was not great.  Mountains outlined the background, yet the left something more desired.  We continued our ascent despite the fact that the weather showed no indication that it would cooperate.  Our party traveled in 2 groups (fast and slow) with me tagging along behind the "fast" group.  We made our way to the peak which also had a nice observation post in a little over an hour.  Our trekker/guide/cook/cigarette fiend Chamin (rhymes with Ramen as in noodles) told us that an average accent was expected to last at least 2 hours, we made it in a little over 1 hour; he also estimated our elevation at 8000ft.  Despite our ahead of schedule pace, we were greeted with white clouds in all directions.  The view was such that I considered not making the final 100+ ft of the climb in protest.  We were well ahead of the "slow" group so there was no real hurry to leave, which turned out to be one of the greatest inconviences of all.  After about 40 minutes of consternation at the weather our final group arrived and within 15 minutes of that the clouds began to part.  To the west we could see the setting sun burning through the thinning layers of clouds as good visibility altered in all 4 directions giving us a chance to shoot pictures in a given direction, depending which end was clear.  To give you an indication of the variability; a window of opportunity to shoot pictures might last 120 seconds before it clouded up again (opening a new window in a new direction).  This routine continued for a bit until we were lucky enough to see in all directions.  I shot a video of the 360` view and a ton of pictures.  Our patience or stubborn refusal to leave finally paid off.  We had about 20 minutes of unadulterated views in all 4 directions.  Although we could not see any whitecaps of the distant mountains, nobody felt disappointed as we began our descent, hastened by the onset of darkness.

When we finally returned to our point of origin it felt as though the descent took longer than the ascent itself, which is probably true given the slow nature of travelling by flashlight near 100+ ft cliffs.  Our exhaustion was combated by a full meal prepared by the out of season resort staff who agreed to stick around late and cook us dinner.  I had Butter Chicken (I don't know why they call it butter) which consisted of a bowl of spicy brown/orange sauce housing 4 pieces of chicken.  Rice and naan (tortilla like but way more edible in my opinion) were also provided, as was a nice bottle of scotch; which warmed me up better than my plastic, sweat drenched raincoat (it drops to about 60F by dark).  The meal will be one I will never forget not only for its deliciousness but the way in which it was consumed.  The members of our group (4) and the Global Students Consultants employees (2) ate first.  Chamin, the cab driver, and our "house mother" Rajinder (he doesn't like this title but has a good sense of humor, he is actually the GSC accountant) did not join us until we had finished our food.  Harmit explained that even if we had invited them that their perception of class difference would have prevented them from feeling comfortable at the table with us.  Even though we all would have welcomed them and eventually did we they agreed to finally join us, their perception of inequality could only come from centuries of inter-racial and intra-racial subjugation.  Indians who belonged to a lower caste were subjugated by those who look similar to themselves.  If the cab driver had not been there we probably would have been able to strong arm Rajinder and Chamin to eat with us, but their concern for the comfort of the cab driver kept us separated for part of the meal.  When they did join, I hope they found their anxieties unfounded as we shared food. 

My hour of internet use is almost up.  After writing this I realize that these posts are going to contain explanations and stories beyond physical beauty and acknowledge the less beautiful aspects of life here.  Those that exist below the surface, ones that naturalize inequality from childhood in a society trying to rid itself of these endemic, but outdated roles from India's colonial history and societal structures.

Where am I?

In the mountains above Mussoorie and Landour in the state of Himachal Pradesh.  Elevation: 7000 ft above sea level.  The only reason this area is accessible to the outside world are the roads left over from the British,  Bridge on the River Kwai would shrivel at these imperial relics.  British soldiers with malaria and other tropical diseases were brought here to "recover," but were more likely to die peacefully.  Now this area attracts the wealthy and retired.  It's not like there is anything imperial about rich people on a mountain towering over impoverished towns.