Monday, September 13, 2010

Sitting in a hotel with a name eerily similar to my own...

I am at the luxurious Rokesby Inn, situated above the towns of Mussoorie and Landour with a view similar to the first picture I posted.  I am not posting any pictures because I am using a public computer (Windows 7 no less); I have purchased 1 hour of internet use which cost 44rupees = $1USD.  Now that I am aware of how awesome this location is, mostly because it is immune from the monsoon dampness of my quarters, I will be returning with my laptop and *recently snapped pictures*.  Also, when (it will happen) the power goes out, this hotel most likely has a backup generator; losing internet in the middle of conversations or when I'm about to post something can become quite frustrating.  The reason for the power outages varies from weather related issues (lightning strikes) to an overburdened power station.  The power situation in Uttarakhand  is quite good relative to other states; power outages usually last 5-15 minutes, however this morning we awoke to no power which lasted well into the morning Hindi lessons.  Uttarakhand has a lot of hydroelectric dams, which are the primary source of power (the people around here recognize its natural beauty and are naturally hesitant to build a power structure around burning coal).

*The recently taken pictures I am referring to are among the best yet.  We traveled to a peak called "Cloud's end" (the name is....spot on) which is estimated to be about 8000 ft/ sea level.  The journey up the mountain first began with a descent to the valley which allowed us access to our eventual tectonic ladder.  The views on the way up the mountain were pretty nice but visibility was not great.  Mountains outlined the background, yet the left something more desired.  We continued our ascent despite the fact that the weather showed no indication that it would cooperate.  Our party traveled in 2 groups (fast and slow) with me tagging along behind the "fast" group.  We made our way to the peak which also had a nice observation post in a little over an hour.  Our trekker/guide/cook/cigarette fiend Chamin (rhymes with Ramen as in noodles) told us that an average accent was expected to last at least 2 hours, we made it in a little over 1 hour; he also estimated our elevation at 8000ft.  Despite our ahead of schedule pace, we were greeted with white clouds in all directions.  The view was such that I considered not making the final 100+ ft of the climb in protest.  We were well ahead of the "slow" group so there was no real hurry to leave, which turned out to be one of the greatest inconviences of all.  After about 40 minutes of consternation at the weather our final group arrived and within 15 minutes of that the clouds began to part.  To the west we could see the setting sun burning through the thinning layers of clouds as good visibility altered in all 4 directions giving us a chance to shoot pictures in a given direction, depending which end was clear.  To give you an indication of the variability; a window of opportunity to shoot pictures might last 120 seconds before it clouded up again (opening a new window in a new direction).  This routine continued for a bit until we were lucky enough to see in all directions.  I shot a video of the 360` view and a ton of pictures.  Our patience or stubborn refusal to leave finally paid off.  We had about 20 minutes of unadulterated views in all 4 directions.  Although we could not see any whitecaps of the distant mountains, nobody felt disappointed as we began our descent, hastened by the onset of darkness.

When we finally returned to our point of origin it felt as though the descent took longer than the ascent itself, which is probably true given the slow nature of travelling by flashlight near 100+ ft cliffs.  Our exhaustion was combated by a full meal prepared by the out of season resort staff who agreed to stick around late and cook us dinner.  I had Butter Chicken (I don't know why they call it butter) which consisted of a bowl of spicy brown/orange sauce housing 4 pieces of chicken.  Rice and naan (tortilla like but way more edible in my opinion) were also provided, as was a nice bottle of scotch; which warmed me up better than my plastic, sweat drenched raincoat (it drops to about 60F by dark).  The meal will be one I will never forget not only for its deliciousness but the way in which it was consumed.  The members of our group (4) and the Global Students Consultants employees (2) ate first.  Chamin, the cab driver, and our "house mother" Rajinder (he doesn't like this title but has a good sense of humor, he is actually the GSC accountant) did not join us until we had finished our food.  Harmit explained that even if we had invited them that their perception of class difference would have prevented them from feeling comfortable at the table with us.  Even though we all would have welcomed them and eventually did we they agreed to finally join us, their perception of inequality could only come from centuries of inter-racial and intra-racial subjugation.  Indians who belonged to a lower caste were subjugated by those who look similar to themselves.  If the cab driver had not been there we probably would have been able to strong arm Rajinder and Chamin to eat with us, but their concern for the comfort of the cab driver kept us separated for part of the meal.  When they did join, I hope they found their anxieties unfounded as we shared food. 

My hour of internet use is almost up.  After writing this I realize that these posts are going to contain explanations and stories beyond physical beauty and acknowledge the less beautiful aspects of life here.  Those that exist below the surface, ones that naturalize inequality from childhood in a society trying to rid itself of these endemic, but outdated roles from India's colonial history and societal structures.

2 comments:

  1. What does it mean when the cow steps in her "mess"?

    ReplyDelete
  2. It means today isn't going to be any different from any other day.

    ReplyDelete